Continuing to pursue quality jeans that are loved by all generations
Double RL was named after Ralph Lauren’s ranch in Colorado. The name is meant to evoke the American pioneering spirit. With its timeless quality, the brand’s workwear and uniforms, which were designed with a specific purpose in mind, embody the fundamental charm of America. One item representative of the collection that exemplifies the brand’s rustic tradition with this kind of utility is denim.
Long ago, jeans were workwear for coal miners and railroad workers. This is because these jobs required tough material that could endure heavy labor. Sturdy denim was essential for them to achieve the frontier spirit of which they dreamed. Every generation admires American clothing for its ability to fit as comfortably as one’s own skin in harsh natural conditions. However, the role of denim has gradually changed over time. It has gone from cowboy culture to youth counterculture to being a designer item. Double RL is filled with an immense respect for the history of jeans, the purpose of which has changed over the course of many years. This is precisely why, rather than simply copying vintage style, we continue to pursue quality jeans that will be loved by every generation.
Bringing good old-fashioned America to the current generation
EAST-WEST DENIM, which was designed based on the good old-fashioned vintage style, is the jean that most embodies the craftsmanship valued by Double RL. As expressed in the model name, this quality can be found in the rich, elaborate manufacturing process that creates products that transcend the borders between East and West. High-quality cotton grown in Tennessee is first brought to Japan, where it is made into cloth in Okayama, known globally as the “holy land of denim.” The process begins by processing the thread into smooth, high-strength ringspun material and rope dyeing it with natural indigo. This creates a deep indigo surface with a remaining white core, which allows for three-dimensional atari (fading) and hige (whiskering). This product is then placed on a traditional narrow weaving shuttle and slowly weaved into fabric with loose tension to avoid placing a burden on the material. While this time-consuming method is not in line with the modern approach which values efficiency and speed, it contains clues for bringing good old-fashioned America to the current generation. As it is worn, the unique, coarse texture gives way to a nuanced vintage denim feel.
The finished selvage material is created from one single thread from beginning to end. Normally, colored thread is used to add a stitch called a “selvage” to the edge of the white material to prevent fraying, but EAST-WEST DENIM runs the selvage right along the border between the indigo and white portions. While this change in position of just a few millimeters does not have a major effect on comfort, this high awareness of detail makes a big difference overall. The material created in Okayama is taken back to the exclusive Double RL plant in the U.S. to be sewn and processed. The hems are sewn on Union Special sewing machines using highly durable chain stitching. The back pockets and belt loops are hand sewn by artisans. Proof of this can be seen in the intricate bartack stitching that reinforces the pocket openings and loops, which are purposefully offset at the rear center. Furthermore, the rivets and other metal parts as well as the thick cotton twill applied to the lining of the pockets are all made in the United States. To maintain the character of the fabric, time is taken to complete the finishing process, which is made up as many as 50 sub-processes. This allows for the unparalleled charm of color that fades beautifully over time.
Having been meticulously created by the eyes and hands of artisans, the resulting five-pocket jeans are all very simple and authentic. However, the complex processes involved are painstakingly selected to create a superior product with the highest possible quality.
DOUBLE RL WITH
For the first time in the world, the ultimate vintage barbershop has opened in the RRL shop on the 7th floor of Hankyu Men’s Tokyo in Yurakucho! The new shop is modeled on the image of good old-fashioned America. The vintage barber chairs, cabinets, and other items in the shop were all brought in from America.